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CAM TIMING - Conventional method using DTI, etc...

Equipment required - one 0.500” minimum capacity DTI with magnetic stand, 360-degree protractor and a piece of reasonably thick gauge wire to use as a pointer. Terminology - DTI - Dial Test Indicator/dial gauge Protractor - degree wheel TDC - Top Dead Centre, when piston is at highest point in bore BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre, before piston reaches highest point in bore ATDC - After Top Dead Centre, after piston has reached highest point in bore. Rotate crank so piston one is at the bore top (TDC). Fit timing gears 'dot-to-dot'. Set up DTI with stem resting on number one piston centre with a little preload. Rotate crank backwards slightly (anti-clockwise looking at the front), then gently forwards observing the DTI, watching where the needle stops before descending. This is TDC. Repeat this procedure, stopping when the needle reaches its zenith. Zero the dial scale, and repeat until satisfied the needle shows zero on the scale.

CAM TIMING - Basic Notes

To avoid lots of swearing and unnecessary damage, check the timing gears slide neatly onto their respective bosses. If tight, first check for any high spots in the gear bores and key-way slots. Clean out using with fine emery cloth, medium Wet 'n' Dry paper, or some such. Remove the Woodruff keys then dress the bosses using abrasive material as mentioned previously. Re-check fitment before re-fitting keys. Check the key-ways and keys too before re-fitting. Get rid of unwanted sticky-out bits on the keys that would inhibit a slide fit. Clean out the key-way and de-burr top edges. I always file a slight 'flat' across them to give plenty of clearance to the gear key slot. If the pulley is a slack fit on the key, turn it anticlockwise before nipping the bolt up. ALWAYS fit it like this. It's imperative to fit cam (and followers in the case of solid wall blocks) following manufacturers instructions precisely using a good quality cam lube.

Yes, contrary to what many say/express, all cranks are forged. None are cast. They wouldn't last 2 minutes in an engine if they were cast - they'd be way too brittle. Below is a list of crankshaft identification data by forging or stamped numbers - yes, contrary to what many say/express, all cranks are forged. None are cast. They wouldn't last 2 minutes in an engine if they were cast - they'd be way too brittle. The differences are in the material used, finish machining detail and any heat treatments applied. It is by no means complete and utterly correct/infallible since Austin/Morris, British Leyland, Leyland cars, Austin Rover, rover, et al were seriously prone to not adhering to specifications and applications lists. But it is better than nothing at all! 22A62 850cc - Early type with oil feed for primary gear, 1.375" dia. tail 22A63 850cc - Early type with oil feed for primary gear, 1.375" dia. tail

Engine - Running in Procedure

This is another of those subjects that crops up on the message board frequently. I am constantly surprised by the number of engine builders - or people who charge other folk for building engines at any rate - that never hand out such an information sheet. It seems pretty daft to me that having taken a wad of money off of a customer for an engine you've lovingly put together, you'd want to help that person get the very best out of the engine. And the running/breaking in procedure is absolutely crucial. It at least ensures no damage is incurred when the engine first bursts into life. A collection of the usual suspects have explained their own methods on the board, along with various others - many of which probably work just as well for them, a few which are down-right dubious. Following is a sheet I administer with every customer engine I build.

Cooling - Controlling water temperature

The introduction of the Cooper S proved to be a testing time for the Mini’s systems, but conveniently provide a guideline as to what the standard cooling system was capable of - that used on the ‘S’ was marginal to say the least!

It wasn’t uncommon for many S’s to spew water from their overflow pipes when ever it was doing anything other than a steady 70 miles an hour, over-heating eventually caused through water loss. Perhaps some deductions can be made from the following…

There are a number of elements involved in controlling water temperature. Some confusion over what to sort first when over-heating occurs leads to wasted time and money, and possibly terminal engine damage. Maximum power is usually generated from A-series engines at 70 – 75 degrees C (160 to 170 degrees F). The main problem with this on a road car is the oil’s unlikely to get hot enough for maximum performance – the results outlined previously.

RUNNING IN NEW ENGINES

Install engine. It is absolutely imperative that the cooling system is more than sufficient to deal with any temperatures likely to be produced by the engine. More power means more heat to be dissipated. A standard radiator is very unlikely to be able to cope with a reasonable power increase over standard.

Do not fill cooling system yet. Set clutch throw-out and free-play take up. Double-check all connections electrical, oil, fuel and cooling system. Put in engine oil – use a cheap multi-grade mineral oil. DO NOT use either semi or full synthetic oils. They will stop the rings from bedding in. Remove spark plugs, and spin engine over in bursts of a few seconds to pick up oil pressure and prevent starter motor damage. DO NOT start engine until oil pressure picks up.

Once oil pressure is showing, check ignition timing statically. Set to figure advised by distributor maker, or if no figures available, set at around 6-8 degrees BTDC. Re-fit spark plugs a

Engine transplants - Ancillary parts

Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap.

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit
SBU - Small Bore Unit

NOTE: This information covers transplanting large-bore engine units into small-bore engined Minis. For further information for exact differences between pre-A+ and A+ units, see relevant separate article.

Engine mountings and steady bars.
Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap. If using the AA/1300GT unit - it's advisable to cut off the 'wings' on the front plate that carried the engine mounts on the radiator end.

The application of this drive system maintains very accurate and consistent cam and ignition timing, and minimises valve train noise - desirable advantages that do not diminish with time. The fibreglass reinforced belt all but eliminates the excessive stretch suffered by chain driven systems-even when a tensioner is used.

No Longer Available see C-AJJ3328RACE

The ubiquitous toothed belt cam drive system, originally developed for high performance race engines, is now generally accepted as the norm on all state of the art modern engines.

The application of this drive system maintains very accurate and consistent cam and ignition timing, and minimising valve train noise. Desireable advantages that do not diminish with time. The fiberglass reinforced belt all but eliminates the excessive stretch suffered by chain driven systems - even where a tensioner is used.

These systems have been developed where positive drive is required for water pump and charging system.

They circumvent problems caused by standard ‘V’ belts being turned or thrown because of ill-fitting belts or mis-aligned pulleys.

The application of this drive system maintains very accurate and consistent cam and ignition timing, and minimising valve train noise. Desirable advantages that do not diminish with time. The fiberglass reinforced belt eliminates the excessive stretch suffered by chain driven systems - even where a tensioner is used. The protracted control of cam and ignition timing maintains peak performance. Chain drives cause excessive timing scatter, even after relatively short periods of running. The MINI SPARES kit enables A-series owners to benefit from such technology. The adjustable cam gear in this kit allows up to 9 degrees of adjustment, facilitating accurate cam timing. An absolute must when installing a performance camshaft.

FITMENT: Remove the original timing cover. Position gears so that the timing marks on cam and crank gears are adjacent, then remove gears/chain assembly. Remove locating keys. Clean cam and crank gear boss surfaces, ensuring new gears are no more than a l

C-AEA538 POLY V BELT DRIVE KIT

C-AEA538 kit contains pulleys for the crankshaft, water pump and dynamo or alternator.

The dynamo/alternator pulley has a 15mm hole size and will not fit later cars from 1985 on which have a 22mm size alternator shaft unless enlarged by an engineering company. The pulleys should be checked for alignment when fitting as some water pumps may require spacers. The fanbelt included is also available as a spare part C-AEA540

For some time now, Mini Spares has been selling a positive water pump drive system – primarily designed for the race-car fraternity. The system used the ubiquitous “Gimhler” (or toothed) best method of drive at all times. It is also self-compensating for any slight misalignment of the pulleys as the crank pulley has guide rails, whilst the water pump pulley is extra deep.

8-Port EFI - Project Update Since the first dyno session at Mountune Race engines, and subsequent investigations in finalising an all purpose , single butterfly plenum chamber, development has gone on apace. Unfortunately getting some sample working castings took longer than we hoped, but it wasn't for lack of effort. The supply time was pretty impressive by normal terms for these things, and it was soon time to go back to the dyno. Now, Dave Mountain is a very busy man and so is his company - being heavily involved in British Touring Cars...

Mini Spares Centre News For some reason, discs (brake rotors for the foreigners amongst us!) for the 'S'/early GT have become more and more difficult to come by. Well, actually, that is not totally accurate. I guess that statement should read "decent quality discs". I know there is a supply of, erm, EEC country manufactured discs purporting to be high quality, but they are extortionately expensive, and are only totally (?) effective...

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